The LEVADAS of Madeira
There is something about walking which opens the heart. A settling, into our bones and being. And rhythm to breathe … especially when on an island in the Atlantic Ocean. Madeira — a Portuguese volcanic island, closer to the coast of Morocco than to mainland Europe — is just 35 miles long and up to 14 miles wide. Oxygen and magnetism … fresh air, everywhere. So pure and strong, it takes some adjusting to.
I was visiting with a friend, to hike. Four full day hikes — climbs to the highest peaks and descents to the subtropical rainforest. The Laurisilva rainforest is 15-20 million years old and covers approximately 20% of the island, storing vast amounts of moisture and water, feeding into the Levadas, year-round. I was in my element :)
Derived from the Portuguese word levar (meaning "to carry"), the Levadas weave across the island — nearly 2000 miles of them — manmade over the centuries. And this is their beauty — not just as beautiful walkways and trails, but the ancient and present-day energy of them. A reverence for the water which feeds the island; a holiness felt, in each stone carved, laid and cared for. Channels of water — flowing because of this care — as we walked … under waterfalls, alongside moisture soaked walls of moss, ferns and lichen — through the sea breeze, holding us. Everything verdant and magnetic — charged.
The water transported by the Levadas supplies the island’s needs: human potable, agricultural irrigation and around a quarter of the island’s hydro-electric power. A supply, from the ground beneath the islander’s feet.
The Land we live upon informs the vibration of place. How we care for it and how we connect with it, too. In Madeira there is this connection woven through the whole island: from the waterfalls to the levadas; from the mountainside terraces, tilled by elders, to the drinking water available from every tap; the 80 miles of tunnels, to pathways carved at altitude, by hand, from volcanic basalt to make safer paths for visitors; banana plantations and cliff-top vineyards, local rum and exotic fruits — and all of it felt great. A recharge of my blood, pulse and the water within me. But it’s the foresight — and quiet pride — of the people of Madeira which touched me most: their reverence and care for something most of us overlook — the essential force and gift of water.
We can learn a lot from the Levadas, the people and island of Madeira.
An energetic gem — sparkling in the Atlantic.
Love,
Delilah
Visited: 09-14.05.26
We hiked with Madeira Free Spirit Walks — who were great!
[More images on Instagram]